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  • Re: Float suspension brackets

    by » 2 years ago


    I've just stripped one of my carbs as I'm trying to fix rough running around 2500rpm.

    My float lever height is more like 9.5 than 10.5 so that's my first thing to correct.

    I have a question about the idle running fuel orifice(s) - is/are there one or two? Just behind the butterfly I can definitely see 2 offset holes symmetrically placed. One is certainly idle mixture, the other is the vacuum test port. In between them on the centre line and just where the butterfly closes there is another mark, I'm not sure if it's another drilling (in which case it's blocked with muck) or just a stain or tiny pit. Can anyone enlighten me please?


  • Re: Float suspension brackets

    by » 2 years ago


    I've just stripped one of my carbs as I'm trying to fix rough running around 2500rpm.

    My float lever height is more like 9.5 than 10.5 so that's my first thing to correct.

    I have a question about the idle running fuel orifice(s) - is/are there one or two? Just behind the butterfly I can definitely see 2 offset holes symmetrically placed. One is certainly idle mixture, the other is the vacuum test port. In between them on the centre line and just where the butterfly closes there is another mark, I'm not sure if it's another drilling (in which case it's blocked with muck) or just a stain or tiny pit. Can anyone enlighten me please?


  • Re: Float suspension brackets

    by » 2 years ago


    Sorry about the double post.

    Anyway got the answer (well done Google) there is one idle orifice but right by the butterfly there are two tiny progression orifices. How I'll clean those I do not know!


  • Re: Float suspension brackets

    by » 2 years ago


    Thank you guys 


  • Re: Float suspension brackets

    by » 2 years ago


    I'm sure people have different ways of doing this, but,,,,,,,

    These orifices aren't usually tough to clean. Try buying a can of "Brake Clean" spray cleaner. I've used other brands, but this one seems to do a far better job at dissolving old and dried fuel. It comes with a small red 5" nozzle that fits in most of the holes plus the aerosol pressures through the holes and the cleaner gets rid of old fuel or particles. Then follow it with some high pressure air with a nozzle. Unless you have some serious clogging issues this usually takes care of things. Don't forget to clean the idle jet in the hole right next to the main jet. Easy to remove with a straight tip screwdriver. It has a very tiny hole down through the center that can become partially or completely clogged if the plane sits for long periods. Since you are supposed to weigh the carb floats every annual and the bowl is already off I now always clean the idle jets. I find at least 50% - 70% of the carbs have at least partial obstruction usually due from long periods of no use and the fuel drys. Take a 6" - 8" length of #18 ga. - 20 ga. wire. Strip back about 5" of the insulation. Unwind a single strand back down to the insulation. Now slide that down through the center of the idle jet orifice. Slide it back and forth and rotate it as you do it. This will remove the old dry fuel or any other obstruction. Now remove the wire and spray that Brake Clean carb cleaner through both ends and follow it with the high pressure air. It will be clean. Absolutely do not use a drill bit or welding tip cleaner wire. This may enlarge or damage the orifice. The wire will not hurt the jet. All the wire does is loosen the debris so it can be flushed. I have found spray cleaner alone will not get the job done. It has worked well for me for 20 years.


    Roger Lee
    LSRM-A & Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
    Tucson, AZ Ryan Airfield (KRYN)
    520-349-7056 Cell


    Thank you said by: Mike Wylde, RotaxOwner Admin

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