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Hi,

Just completed 5 yearly hose change out and 100 hour service. Things did not go as per text book. Firstly when attempting to pressure tank to 9 to 14 psi I was unable to maintain any readable pressure on gauge. Undaunted I must have spun the prop some 300 to 400 times and actually put some 7 litres of new oil through before exhaustion made me quit. However on first start up had instant oil pressure although fluctuating over 10 mins between 3 to 7 bar. Checked lifters and all hard. Performed several additional ground runs and pressure evened out to a steady 3.5 to 4 bar. Now flown for an hour and all seems stable at 3.5 bar. Sound familiar?
  • Re: 912ULS oil and hose change

    by » 5 years ago


    Did you actually pour 7 liters into the engine??? !!! :ohmy:
    If you did, the initial fluctuations were likely from the excess oil being blown out of the tank.
    Did you "Burp" the Oil Tank before the first start?

    It is only necessary to put "Some" pressure on the tank.
    The 1bar/15psi MAX specified is to prevent the "More is Better" crowd from trying to explode the tank with 100psi.
    You only need enough to start the Oil moving. 3-5psi is plenty.

    If you had removed the Oil Filter, you would likely have seen Oil moving after 50-60 turns.

    There is a small detail that is missing from the instructions...
    When you take the return hose OFF of the Oil tank, it must be routed "Downhill All the Way" to the catch container.
    There is no pressure in the system to allow the Oil to flow uphill.
    It is only draining under the force of gravity.

    Bill Hertzel
    Rotax 912is
    North Ridgeville, OH, USA
    Clicking the "Thank You" is Always Appreciated by Everyone.


  • Re: 912ULS oil and hose change

    by » 5 years ago


    Bill, yes burped engine before start up. Caught 4 litres +_ of dirty oil into bucket but returns still discoloured red due to red dye added to fuel here in PH (all gas engines here have red oil on change out). Then pumped an additional 3 litres before clear oil coming back. Reconnected hoses, burped engine and topped off tank with clean oil. Happy you mention the lower air pressure - gauge was 2" 0 to 50 psi and on a one man operation its difficult to read the gauge whilst swinging prop. So basically it was swing 60 times. Stop and check oil tank and refill, swing another 60 ect. You mention removing oil filter. I did change the filter but it was insitu when purging. The return hose end was below sump level but had small loop in it.

    Thank you said by: William Woodell

  • Re: 912ULS oil and hose change

    by » 5 years ago


    ... Happy you mention the lower air pressure - gauge was 2" 0 to 50 psi and on a one-man operation, it's difficult to read the gauge whilst swinging prop...


    That has me confused. ???
    The drill is to remove the return Oil Hose from the tank and let it hang.
    Install a cap over the fitting on the Oil tank where the Hose was removed.
    Remove the Oil Vent line from the neck of the Oil Tank.
    Attach an air-hose regulated to ≈5psi to the neck of the Oil Tank.
    At this point, you should be able to read a steady pressure on the gauge on the air regulator before ever swinging the prop.
    ---
    If you begin the purge process with the Oil Filter removed, once Oil appears at the Filter fitting you will know when the hoses have been refilled much earlier than waiting for the Oil to appear in the sump.
    This is not required or even necessary. It is just a way to know the process is working about 40 turns sooner.
    ---
    You could have saved the cost of 3 liters of Oil by just draining the Oil Tank and replacing the 4 liters and moving on.
    There is no need to flush the engine until the oil is clear.
    It will be Red and used looking after an hour of use no matter how nice it looked during the Oil change.
    But, if it makes you feel confident, so be it.
    ---
    Many, Many years ago, I used to change the Oil in my car by warming it up and then I added a half liter of kerosene to the oil.
    I would let it circulate at idle for 5 minutes before draining it all out.
    The kerosene would really help flush out the crankcase and the Oil came out like water.
    It didn't hurt anything, But probably didn't help much either, but it made me feel good. :)

    Bill Hertzel
    Rotax 912is
    North Ridgeville, OH, USA
    Clicking the "Thank You" is Always Appreciated by Everyone.


    Thank you said by: Andrew Dunning

  • Re: 912ULS oil and hose change

    by » 5 years ago


    Quick question, If I was just going to clean the Oil Reservoir, and change the oil and oil filter, would i have to purge the entire system?

    Or would I have to pinch a line to not let the oil drain out? I don't really want to purge the oil system if not necessary. I have a rotax 912uls and it has 100 hours since new on it. I use 100 percent 100LL. Thanks in advance for any info.

  • Re: 912ULS oil and hose change

    by » 5 years ago


    Whatever you do, Do NOT "Pinch" any hoses!!!
    This isn't your lawnmower!!!

    Consider changing your Oil Every 50hrs when using 100LL 100% of the time.
    Expect to see a lot of lead sludge in the bottom of the Oil Tank.

    As long as you do not intentionally drain the OUT Hose, a Purge will not be required.
    When removing the OUT Hose, be prepared to support it at, or just slightly above, its normal height with some twine or a Ty-Rap so that it does not drain.
    The IN hose will not have any oil in it and is not an issue in any event.

    Before the first start, crank the engine with the Ignitions OFF until you see minimal Oil Pressure.
    During the Actual start, watch the Oil Pressure closely for the first 30 seconds.
    In either event, you should see oil pressure in well under 10 seconds.

    Bill Hertzel
    Rotax 912is
    North Ridgeville, OH, USA
    Clicking the "Thank You" is Always Appreciated by Everyone.


    Thank you said by: Roger james Larson

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