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Here is the scenerio: I have a 912ULS with almost 500 hours in 6 years. The engine started perfect for the first 300 hours with choke/enrichener on first start-up of the day. Then it got to where it didn't need the choke to start. Then it became hard to start around a year ago with 420 hours or so on the Hobbs. I called Lockwood and they told me about the 200 hr "inspection". I knew about it but they defined it for me. Wow, who knew? Anyway, Lockwood performed the 200 hr at 420 hrs but the engine still didn't require any choke to start as it did when new. Last month my engine began to exhibit the "hard start" problem again. It got to where the only way to start it was to assume it was flooded and go right to full throttle. It would then start after about 15 - 20 seconds of cranking (at full throttle...not the way to treat a perfectly good engine). This even after only sitting overnight.

I used this forum to find some pertinent facts: fuel level in bowl, idle mixture screw setting, and needle clip setting. Thank you Roger. When I removed the carbs to check these items both throats were quite wet. The fuel levels were at 1/4" from the top of the bowl on both carbs. The needles where set correctly. By bending the float needle position tabs I was able to easily adjust the fuel level to 1/2". Since I am in the middle of an annual condition inspection I haven't tried to start it up yet but I am reasonably confident the problem is solved, if only temporarily.

I saw a similar problem a couple of years ago with a Hirth two stroke engine. It was spraying fuel out the vent lines when running. Bending the taps helped with that problem too.

Question: What is causing the tabs to bend? Is it vibration? My engine vibrates very little as I go to some lengths to keep the carbs syncronized and the three blade Warp pitch settings exact. I'm going to add the fuel level check to my annual check list, but I was wondering what was the cause.

Thank you all.
  • Re: Float position tab

    by » 12 years ago


    Hi Alan

    I don't think that the tabs bend with use and the correct float level is very important.

    As you say that you haven't started your engine yet so you are not sure you have solved the problem.

    Is the needle valve seating properly? Is that why your float level seemed high? Is it a fuel problem why it is hard to start or are you just presuming that?

    Do you turn your fuel tap off at the end of the day?, that would stop fuel seeping past your needle valve and flooding your engine.

    It is possible that you could have a problem with your CDI modules.

    Good luck

    Mark

  • Re: Float position tab

    by » 12 years ago


    Mark,

    Thank you for your reply. I was confident I had fixed the problem but I have been confident, and wrong, before so I checked the bowl level again after it had set all night with the fuel valves open. Again, the level was at 1/4" from the top of the bowl, floats out. Dang! Being as it was Saturday I couldn't talk to anybody at Lockwood, so I went on line and ordered a couple of float needle valves. Ouch! They should be here Tuesday. That should correct the fuel level problem, but what if it isn't the hard start problem? Spark plugs were replaced last year at annual and are still good. I get about 200 hours on a set before I change them. They always look good but that is my limit. These still look very good and are set at .024". My idle is set at 1800rpm and it runs smooth there.

    What else should I look for if this doesn't solve the problem?

    Alan :unsure:

  • Re: Float position tab

    by » 12 years ago


    Hi Alan,

    I hotter weather try setting the plug gap wider. Use the .027 for summer months and the .023-.024 in the cold months. I know what the book says on plug time, but I would not follow that. Many of us change our plugs at 75 hrs and I usually recommend no more than 100 hrs. The float level can be set two ways. Rotax has a little gauge that slides in place to help get the float level correct or use a MM ruler and measure from the carb edge up to the bottom of the float arm. It should be 10.5mm.

    These most common things can make a difference in starting.
    poor carb sync, especially at idle
    too high or too low an idle set
    adding throttle at start (there is an allowable limit, but just a crack it)
    poor plug gap selection
    old plugs
    bad float level adjustment
    bad floats
    air leaks


    Lockwood does not sync the carbs at idle with the idles stop screw and back the idle stop screw out of play completely and then just use the Bowden cable. They usually only sync the carbs to 2500 rpm. If this is the case, sync these carbs at idle using the idle stop screw as the book says and at the higher rpm around 3500+ with the Bowden cable adjuster.
    Your problems may be just carb sync and adjustment. You won't know until you correct this.

    Roger Lee
    LSRM-A & Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
    Tucson, AZ Ryan Airfield (KRYN)
    520-349-7056 Cell


  • Re: Float position tab

    by » 12 years ago


    Roger, thank you for your reply. I value your expertise.

    I'll start with your last paragraph. I sent my carbs off to Lockwood and all they did was the 200hr inspection (at 400 hours). I follow your advice when syncing the carbs every year, so they are synced at idle, at 3500rpm, and then checked at full throttle.

    I'll change the plug gap to .027" because it is hot and I guess I'll change to new plugs as well. As for the float level, when you say 10.5mm, is the carb upside down on the bench and the float arm just resting on the float needle valve or is the spring in that valve compressed? My curiosity bug wants to know. B) Also, I have my idle set at 1800 rpm with the idle stop screw. Is that too high?

    All the other items don't really apply in my case. I always start at idle and increase after start to warm up. For the first 300 hours choke was needed but not since. Choke for the last 200 hours has seemed to flood the engine.

    Thank you again,

    Alan

  • Re: Float position tab

    by » 12 years ago


    Hi Alan,

    1800 rpm is okay. I usually like to be between 1700-1800 for a ULS because of the compression ratio. The UL can handle a little lower rpm due to its compression ratio, but 1700-1800 is a good idle for the UL too. These are my personal preferences and maybe someone else may prefer a little higher or lower. If I have to sit and wait to take off or an extended sit, I usually keep the throttle around 2000 rpm, it's just smoother a little higher than lower rpms. If your plane starts without using the choke that's okay. To check the float arm level the carbs do need to be upside down and the arms at rest. Do not put any pressure on the valve needle spring. You can use the Rotax tool to measure the arm level or a mm ruler. Glad to see you're changing plugs.

    Roger Lee
    LSRM-A & Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
    Tucson, AZ Ryan Airfield (KRYN)
    520-349-7056 Cell


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