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  • Re: water inlet tube angle

    by » 6 years ago


    I have had better luck if I clamp the tube in a vise and turn the pump housing.
    The stick in the pipe forces the pipe to one side.
    Think of it like using the lug nut wrench that comes with the car as opposed to using a 4-way lug wrench.
    Any sideloading will cause it to jump threads.

    If you can get it to move any at all, you should be able to get it out.
    Getting any solvent into the joint will be near impossible when it is cold.
    And getting any Alcohol/Acetone solvent into it when it is Hot will be just as futile due to it boiling off instantly

    I would suggest getting it hot and, if it will wiggle, try working a few drops of motor oil into the threads.
    Locktite is an Acrylic, think of it as Plexiglass, the oil will act as a release agent.

    You are going to need to get it over 500°F, so 30 minutes in a 550°F kitchen oven may be needed to get the pump housing up to temperature without overheating it.
    Expect to the Motor Oil to smoke at these temperatures.

    Luck will play a part, but you have little to lose at this point.

    Bill Hertzel
    Rotax 912is
    North Ridgeville, OH, USA
    Clicking the "Thank You" is Always Appreciated by Everyone.


  • Re: water inlet tube angle

    by » 6 years ago


    I took Bill's advice, I put the fitting in a vice and turned the water pump cover. I heated it with a torch and the heat was much better. I damaged the tube and the threads. I ordered a new cover and I'm having the tubes clocked to my specs by some guys who have the equipment and experience . It was quite expensive to make this error.
    DSC_0414.jpg (You do not have access to download this file.)
    DSC_0416.jpg (You do not have access to download this file.)

  • Re: water inlet tube angle

    by » 6 years ago


    I removed a water coolant hose fitting from the water pump housing and it was ruined. The replacement water pump housing and associated loose fit fittings has arrived and I am still not going to be able to clock them sufficiently to rout hoses around the engine mount. I will need to move the position of #4 cylinder fitting and to do that I need the engine to be on a vertical stand (which I don't have) anyone know of a way to locally manufacture said stand?
    IMG_0458.JPG (You do not have access to download this file.)
    IMG_0456.JPG (You do not have access to download this file.)

  • Re: water inlet tube angle

    by » 6 years ago


    Something is not clear here!
    The hoses from the pump to the cylinders are pretty short and standard and are not affected by the installation, Oil Tank, Etc.
    If you are using the standard Rotax mount, The hose just passes through the arms.
    If your Kitfox has a custom mount, the manufacturer should have taken all of this into account.
    What are you doing that is different from everyone else?

    Re-Clocking the #4 Cylinder fitting will require heating that cylinder to 500+ degrees to soften the Locktite. Not Good!
    You may be looking at a new cylinder also!!!
    Time to rethink this. ???

    Bill Hertzel
    Rotax 912is
    North Ridgeville, OH, USA
    Clicking the "Thank You" is Always Appreciated by Everyone.


  • Re: water inlet tube angle

    by » 6 years ago


    The engine mount is for a model IV Kitfox. The lower water tubes on the cylinders are aligned with the engine mount in such a way that some of the hoses run into (not around) the engine mount. I could force a tube around the engine mount and deal with the chafing and abrasion of that option, but I am trying to avoid it. Im with you,Not heating that lower tube. I'm working on it and hoping I don't have to settle for a crummy install.

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