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Hi All,

Just wanted some advice about my external alternator setup on a new Rotax 914 build please.

I have the Rotax 40A external alternator in addition to the standard 18A internal generator in my 914 system. Both are controlled via relays connected to the main bus through a 3 way switch so both cannot be on at the same time. Plan was to start the engine on battery to minimise starter load, then once running, engage the alternator and leave the internal generator as a backup.

System was working perfectly for the first few hours and the alternator was charging the battery well. then I noticed at high operational revs, that the over voltage warning light on the alternator would coming on and the CHT and oil pressure sensors would stop working (presumably because of the over voltage). Now the over voltage light is on all the time, anytime I switch the alternator on, even at low revs. However, If I switch over to the internal generator at any time, then everything is fine again, the sensors all work again, and the battery begins to charge as normal.

I presume that if the 18A internal generator is working at charging the battery, then the Ducati regulator must be ok, and that the problem must be at the alternator. Is this correct? Maybe the alternator's internal regulator has blown or it is something to do with the capacitor or wiring? If it worked before why would it suddenly fail? How do I confirm this and fix it? Does the capacitor help to regulate the voltage from the alternator, or is it just to filter noise from the alternator?

Many thanks in advance for your replies

Amer
  • Re: External Alternator Over Voltage

    by » 7 years ago


    Hi Amer,

    I would use a meter and see what the internal output is to the VR and then switch and see what the external output is. That would be a good place to start.

    Roger Lee
    LSRM-A & Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
    Tucson, AZ Ryan Airfield (KRYN)
    520-349-7056 Cell


    Thank you said by: Amer Karim

  • Re: External Alternator Over Voltage

    by » 7 years ago


    They are both Alternators. The Generator became history in the 1960s.
    Generators have Brushes, Alternators have Diodes.

    How are you disabling the Alternators?

    When disabling an alternator from the system, you remove power from the field windings.
    The Output remains attached to the Battery.
    If you are removing the Output from the battery with the field still energized, The regulator loses its reference and the voltage can rise high enough to destroy the regulator.
    By removing the Field supply the Alternator output goes to zero.
    The regulator Diodes prevent any reverse currents to the alternator from the battery.
    It just quietly goes to sleep.

    There is no valid reason not to operate BOTH Alternators at the SAME time, ALL the time.
    They will share the load and play nicely with each other.
    Each will run cooler and last longer.
    The Two alternators together, each running at half load, will Not load the engine anymore than one alternator running at full load.

    There is no downside to running them as a set.

    Bill Hertzel
    Rotax 912is
    North Ridgeville, OH, USA
    Clicking the "Thank You" is Always Appreciated by Everyone.


    Thank you said by: Amer Karim, Esteban Popo

  • Re: External Alternator Over Voltage

    by » 7 years ago


    Hi Guys,

    Many thanks for the replies. It seems that I have not understood how alternators work or that the external alternator is actually "permanently on and generating current " when the engine is running despite having disconnecting it from the battery with a relay. I was just concerned that by having 2 generation systems connected at the same time, that one will end up charging and burning out the other, much like having 2 different batteries connected together.

    I have a 3 axis autopilot, dual panels and the usual other electrics in my build, and the alternator was recommended to me as a necessary addition to prevent overloading the internal generator. For reference, my battery is a 36Ah 12V lithium battery and I have a smaller back up battery for the panels as well.

    I think the regulator and diodes on the alternator has blown from being disconnected from the load while the engine has been running, hence the over voltage now. This has been sent for repair and the mechanics have assured me it is very easy and cheap to just replace the diode plate and regulator and it will then work as new.

    I think that when the alternator comes back fixed, that I should have it and the generator both switched on all the time, so that they each have a load to the battery to prevent damage to either of their systems. Probably the alternator will supply most of the load compared to the generator but that is OK, and I have been referred to the wiring diagram in the Rotax manual that shows both the generator and external alternator fitted in parallel, so I will duplicate this setup.

    My rectifier has been mounted with heat paste and I have fitted a computer fan to the unit to help it cool so that should be ok for now.

    Any other tips or suggestions would be very welcome.

    Thanks again

  • Re: External Alternator Over Voltage

    by » 7 years ago


    I am not an electrical engineer and have no formal training, but I will try to help.

    The Rotax installation manual says that the voltage set point is 13.7-14.3 (midpoint 14) volts for the integrated generator and 14.2 - 14.8 (midpoint 14.5) volts for the external alternator.

    If you follow the Rotax drawing and run both charging systems at the same time, here is how the alternator and generator should behave:

    As loads are added to the electrical system, the external alternator will carry 100% of the load, keeping the system at 14.5 volts, until it is maxed out (approx 40 amps). Once the alternator is maxed out, additional loads will be carried by the integrated generator, keeping the system at 14.0 volts until it too is maxed out (approx 20 amps).

    Regarding turning the alternator and generator on and off, this can be confusing because they do not behave the same way.

    The alternator has a "field wire" (IG on the Rotax diagram) that can be used to turn the alternator on and off. There should be a pilot-accessible breaker in the field wire and pulling that breaker will shut down the alternator. The alternator could also be shut down by turning off the master switch, but that would not only shut down the alternator, it would also disconnect the battery and the main bus would go dark.

    The generator is different. The generator has a wire labeled "C" and in order for the generator to begin to function, it must see voltage on this C wire. But once the generator is going, voltage can be removed from this C wire and the generator will keep generating. It's not like the field wire in the generator, in that disconnecting it will not shut down the generator.

    If you want to be able to turn off the generator, you need to take a different approach and use a relay to interrupt the current as it leaves the generator, on the way to the regulator rectifier.

    The Rotax diagram does not provide for any way to shut off (or isolate) the output of the integrated generator, but it does provide a way to disconnect the C wire from the battery when the airplane is shut down. This is important because if the C wire remains connected to the battery after shutdown, it will drain the battery. On the Rotax diagram, turning off the master switch causes the battery contactor to open which removes the current from the relay, and so turning the master off also disconnects the C wire.

    On the Rotax diagram, warning lights are shown for both the alternator and the generator. These are not over voltage lights. They come on when the alternator or generator is not functioning, that is, when the system voltage is higher than the alternator (or generator) output voltage.

    One thing to keep in mind is that the Rotax 914 requires an electric fuel pump. Therefore, consistent uninterrupted power to both the main fuel pump and the auxiliary fuel pump is necessary for safety and redundancy. The Rotax diagram has one fuel pump getting its power directly from the generator and the other getting its power off the main bus. Doing it like that helps insure that at least one fuel pump will always have power.

    Another thing to consider is that in the event of a crash, you really don't want the fuel pumps to continue to run. Crashes can happen suddenly, without sufficient warning to shut things down, and so it would be better if the fuel pumps shut off automatically. The Rotax diagram does nothing to address this concern.

    Thank you said by: Amer Karim

  • Re: External Alternator Over Voltage

    by » 7 years ago


    Why not use the internal gen to power the main fuel pump only. Use the 40A alternator for everything else.
    This also addresses part of the fuel pump OFF when engine stops issue. The aux pump would still need to be manually switched off.

    Bill, many, many years ago I asked a Rotax engineer to explain why the internal gen was not called an alternator. He had an explanation; although it could also be called an alternator it is technically a permanent magnet generator even though it does not have brushes and produces AC. I don't remember the finer details.

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