Ignition Module Replacement

I'm guessing you must have the older SMD's like me.   I believe they call it 4+1.  One 4 pin connector from the trigger coils and then a power connector, ignition cutoff connector, 2 capacitor discharge connectors (that go to the ignition coils), and a ground wire.

The connectors on mine were not that bad to disconnect except the ones jammed in near the ignition coils.  You are supposed to use a lithium grease on the connectors.  If the engine was out in the open without a cowl, I could see how these connectors could corrode.  I would try to pull back near the crimp area of the connector, not the wire itself.

In my case (on a recent thread I started), I found a cracked wire that supplied power to one of the SMD's and some brittle spark plug wire and possibly loose connections to the spark plug caps.  It is common to get a cracked wire on one of the SMD wires.

Good luck.  -John

Robert

If you are referring to the white Molex connectors for the SMD to the harness it is easy.  Be sure you can hold each end of the plastic connector, do not pull on the wires themselves.  Remember that the connector block has a sealing o-ring internally so there is a bit of pressure on the lock blade.  Note the lock blade and while holding the block use your thumbnail to lift the lock tab.  As soon as it is released it will pull away with ease.  There is no need for tools or anything other than your thumbnail.  On assembly be sure to lube the pins with a small bit of lithium grease or DC4 grease.  This prevents corrosion of the connection that might happen over time and helps the release next time you take it apart. 

I found a small screen shot of the connector, however I would not use a screwdriver as shown since you can damage the lock with metal tools on the plastic.  Since the lock is a "lift" to release your thumbnail is safe and will damage nothing. 

Cheers

I was having trouble because I was squeezing instead of lifting the lock tab :-( but I figured it out! thanks for the help!