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Hey there my fellow Rotax owners.  I just installed a new Rotax 912 ULS on a Czech Sport Cruiser.  I am almost read to start it up but have a couple questions. 

1. The video on "Purging of lubrication system"  says to put a suitable air tight cap on the oil return line connection.  What have others used in this instance?  I just want to make sure I have an appropriate airtight cap.

2. What is the white goopy substance on the prop flange?  I am guessing it is just for shipping purposes, but I don't want to wipe it off if it is something that should stay on there.

3.  Since this is a brand new engine from the factory, is the idol set screw already set at the 1.5 turns?  I noticed it has tamper paint on it so don't want to mess with it if it is already set. 

I think that's about it.  If anyone could help me get these answers and or any other useful tips before doing its first run up, I am all ears and very eager to learn more from you all.  Thanks!

  • Re: New engine install help

    by » 6 weeks ago


    I've fitted a few 912 engines and so in answer to your questions:

    1. When purging the oil I just trap a medium thickness polythene bag between the pipe and the fitting. That seems to do the job satisfactorily.

    2. I don't know what the substance is on the prop flange. If it is on the front face I would clean it off to allow the prop to sit flat on the flange. If it is on the back then I would leave it as this face can suffer from surface corrosion.

    3. The engines are run on a test bed at the factory before being shipped, therefore I would not alter any of the carb mixture settings.

    Before you start the engine, make sure that you have satisfactory oil pressure and that you have no fuel leaks. Other than that just follow the manual to make sure that you haven't missed anything.

    I hope that helps.


  • Re: New engine install help

    by » 6 weeks ago


    Thank you Kevin!  That helps immensely!


  • Re: New engine install help

    by » 6 weeks ago


    Hi Nick,

    Its absolutely imperative that you follow the Rotax manual for purging and initial/static carburettor set up.

    Purging, from memory;

    You will need access to a compressor with an air regulator, an air "gun" with longish nozzle (similar OD to ID of breather hose) and enough hose to reach your engine.

    For setting up the engine for purge; the oil return line from the bottom of the crankcase should be disconnected from the tank and allowed to drain into a  clean container (so that you can reuse the oil).

    Remove one spark plug from each cylinder.

    Make sure you have at least 3 L of oil in the tank.

    Plug the open oil return spigot - I used a short length of oil pipe just pushed on (no need to hose clamp) with a small vice grip to clamp the pipe closed.

    Holding the gun open (blasting air) turn your regulator down to the Rotax recommended pressure (I use 10 psi).

    Push the nozzle of the air gun into your breather hose (its should just stay there) 

    Use a piece of wire or zip tie to keep the air gun open. Air will escape around the tank cap - not a problem.

    Start rotating prop as per Rotax instructions.

    Handy to have a second person watching the oil pressure gauge to report how its rising.

    Carburettor Settings;

    You will need an Allan key, spanners (I think 10mm x 2 & 8 mm) & a feeler gauge.

    Follow Rotax manual

    Set cockpit throttle to idle position

    With the carb cable adjust about mid point do an initial adjustment by slipping the cable through the throttle arm and clamping (do not overtighten on cable)

    The rest is in the Rotax manual.

    Take your time, be very precise and you will be surprised how close you can get to balanced carbs for initial start. After first start and final parts of oil purge, do a pneumatic/vacuum balance to fine tune carburettors.

    If in doubt get help from Rotax mechanic or experienced friend.


  • Re: New engine install help

    by » 6 weeks ago


    If you don’t have a compressor you can use a foot pump or even a bicycle pump. You don’t need much pressure to force the oil around the circuit. 


  • Re: New engine install help

    by » 6 weeks ago


    You don't need much pressure but you do need  volume at that pressure.

    I  doubt that a foot/hand pump could be employed, to deliver sufficient volume, by anything other than a supremely fit athlete, for the time it may take, to ensure that the oil had carried away all trapped air from the oil cooler and internal galleries.

    In desperation, a good quality 12 volt air pump may just deliver sufficient volume but then how would you regulate the pressure?

     

     


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