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  • Re: New engine install help

    by » 4 months ago


    I have successfully used both a compressor and a foot pump on separate occations, there's a lot less flow than you would think.


  • Re: New engine install help

    by » 4 months ago


    Okay but I will stick with a compressor to perform this critical task.


  • Re: New engine install help

    by » 4 months ago


    Oil purge is quite easy and the Rotax service centers have inexpensive kits.

    Just do it the way it shows in the videos here on our web site. An air compressor gives constant even air pressure in the tank to push the oil up into the oil pump. I have a small adjustable air compressor regulator with a small plastic poly tube on it and that attaches to the vent nipple on the tank. These can be purchased from a service center or a hardware store. I use 10 psi. I use a metal screw on cap on the inlet fitting on the tank that you can buy at a service center. While I leave the crankcase oil hose dangle I put a rubber plug in it to keep from making an oily mess and just losing oil. When I pressure the system to rotate the prop I remove it. The oil tank cap will leak air because it was never designed to be air pressure tight. This is okay because the air compressor will maintain your psi in the tank that pushes the oil up to the oil pump and then the pump takes over. After a hose change I make sure I have about 3.5 liters of oil in the tank because you’ll need the extra to fill all the empty hose, air spaces and your oil cooler. You do not want to run too low on oil and then pump more air into the system. I was originally taught you can rotate the prop with the spark plugs in or out. It’s ten times easier with them out. You just remove the top plugs. I have a pair of leather welding gloves that are thick. When ready I apply 10 psi to the tank, remove my rubber plug on the return oil hose and place it in a bucket and then I rotate the prop at approximately 70 rotations a minute and do it until I get 80 full rotations. At this speed I usually get around 55 psi on the instrument oil pressure gauge. Then I stop, replace my rubber plug and turn off the air pressure on the regulator right at the tank. Then I catch my breath. I hate getting old. LOL

    After a minute or two I repeat this process. So I have actually purged the system twice. Doing it this way I have never had a soft lifter / valve.

    Oil purges are easy an no reason to make them hard.

     

    p.s.

    It’s the getting old part that’s hard. 😆 


    Roger Lee
    LSRM-A & Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
    Tucson, AZ Ryan Airfield (KRYN)
    520-349-7056 Cell


    Thank you said by: RotaxOwner Admin

  • Re: New engine install help

    by » 4 months ago


    Thank you all for the fantastic advice!  The initial run up went great except one little aspect.  On the Dynon Skyview it was showing that as I added throttle the fuel PSI would start to go down.  I have had this happen before on other planes and it turned out to be the mechanical fuel pump.  However this is a brand new engine so I can't imagine that would be the issue.  Any other guesses??


  • Re: New engine install help

    by » 4 months ago


    Run the engine a few times and see if the fuel pressure settles down. If it drops down on the low side when you advance the throttle and goes back up when you go back to idle I’d make sure I had a solid ground. You may have a ground just not a good solid one which will cause this up and down fuel pressure as you advance or retard the throttle.


    Roger Lee
    LSRM-A & Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
    Tucson, AZ Ryan Airfield (KRYN)
    520-349-7056 Cell


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