Need help troubleshooting a sleeping ECU

The proof that the ECU is powered is that if either LANE Switch is Activated, BOTH Lane Lamps will Illuminate at least for a few seconds until the ECU completes its reset.

With START POWER ON and the LANE Switches OFF, One terminal of the LANE Switch should show ~12v.
With START POWER ON and the LANE Switches ON, BOTH terminals of the LANE Switch should show ~12v.

The original problem was that the Dynon unit was not getting data from the Rotax CAN bus.  If the lane lights are illuminating as Bill explains above, maybe the problem is actually the CAN buss connection or a configuration problem in the Dynon unit.  

I don't have lane lights, I was going to rely on the Dynon for that. But I may need to make some just for this purpose. And I still need to check the voltage on the Lane switches.

I'd love to go back to Dynon support and say that we've verified that the ECU is powered on, and that they need to own the troubleshooting of the CAN connection, but I'm still troubled by the low amp draw.

Can someone please do the following:
1. Place a multimeter between the battery and master relay
2. Pull every breaker and fuse except Start Power or Backup Battery
3. Turn on Master and one of the above
4. Tell me the amp draw

If it's near 0.4A, then I guess the ECU pulls very little power when the engine is off. If it shows ~1.5A, then I still have a Rotax problem.

Made up some lane lights and added them to HIC A and B, all seems to working well. Turning on Lane A and/or B will light the associated LED for a few seconds, then off. Turning off Lane A and/or B will light the associated LED forever. I can do this all day without failure.

So my ECU is working? This is definite proof? If so, I'm going to head back over here to continue working on the CAN issue.

It was a CANBUS problem the whole time. Go to the other thread to see the cause.