by Jim Isaacs » one year ago
The only way to remove rust is via mechanical means, like Roger’s Dremel spinning wire wheel (watch out for flying wires though, they hurt!) suggestion Even then some corrosion may not be reachable via mechanical means without removing too much of the substrate. There are rust conversion coatings (I’ve used an Eastwood product with success) that will flow into every pit and crevice and encapsulate existing rust and prevent further corrosion. Cures as a shiny black coating. Requires a top coat of paint after application. If you decide to go that route protect EVERYTHING else around the flange as the conversion liquid is messy, flows rapidly, and removes any paint it touches.
by Sean Griffin » one year ago
From RW
".....(waxy properties)....."
From Rotax SI
"* or equivalent # long-term, waxy film rust inhibitor"
Tectyl 506 spray can AU $20, can be got from most automotive outlets, some paint shops, etc
Originally developed as a corrosion inhibitor for European cars (salty roads) now has many other uses in marine & agriculture. Great stuff - I love it.
Can be purchased in pack sizes from 400gms - 4L- 20L
https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en-au/tectyl-506-heavy-duty-rust-preventative/
by Michael Tucker » 3 weeks ago
My 912ULS came from the Rotax factory with a very sticky yellowish coating on the prop flange (see photo). My serial number is 9144585. Could this be a corrosion inhibitor? And secondly, should I leave it on the flange or clean it off before mounting the prop? It is very thin and if it is indeed some type of corrosion inhibitor, I would be inclined to leave it on the flange. Comments?
Thanks,
Mike
by Sean Griffin » 3 weeks ago
Hi Michael,
"My 912ULS came from the Rotax factory with a very sticky yellowish coating on the prop flange.."
My only concern with a "sticky" substance, would be the tendency to attract dust, which may accelerate the wear on the gearbox seal.
Rotax recomend coating the flange with "Motorex Chainlube Road Strong" that will resist being flung of by centrifugal forces.
I use "Valvoline Tectyl 506", a sprayable wax, which dries to a tack free finish (hopefully dust-resistant) and should also resist centrifugal forces. The Tectyl may need to be reapplied periodically, say every 200 hrs😈
by Roger Lee » 3 weeks ago
The best spray I have ever used is Boeshield T9. It was designed for Boeing aircraft to prevent corrosion. I used it all the time in my diving days and so did all my clients. It is paraffin based and will keep any surface free from corrosion. We used it in a saltwater environment and it works great. You can take a floating dive compressor or a Sea-Doo engine or any other metal that might corrode in water or moisture and spray this.on it. It dries and no moisture will cause corrosion.
Roger Lee
LSRM-A & Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Tucson, AZ Ryan Airfield (KRYN)
520-349-7056 Cell
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