M6 hose nipple for intake manifold

I never clamp the balance tube hose. It can leak and cause a mis-reading on the gauges. I always remove the hose off one 90 degree fitting on the left side. Either side will work. Now I'm 100% sure there is no interference between the two carbs to cause misreading of the gauges.  One male fitting from my gauges goes into the rubber balance tube hose and the metal 90 degree fitting has a hose go over it from the  gauges. Plus squeezing the hose to a collapsed state can ruin the balance tube hose over time. Once you know what the gauges are telling you a carb sync is easy and quick. Carb syncs on take me 10 -15 minutes. In my classes I cover carb sync in major detail and we perform a carb sync and get everyone involved. The key is knowing what the gauges are telling you and then you can diagnose with them too. I'm not a Carb Mate fan because not only does it take longer, but you can't diagnose with it.

Hi Roger,

I agree with the measurement device. I use 2 vacuum gaugs marked with right and left. Each have a little damping valve for compensation the trempling pointers - vacuum gauges esp. for synchronisation like bikers use. Also a have a table with instructions if there are deviations of vaccuum and rpm at idle.

In the beginning i connected the gauges like your description but it seems to me its to much effort. After installation the valve beween the intakes, synchronisation is much more easier. Not forget the instruction table, sometimes without this table, it could be a little be tricky: right or left, adjusment screw cw or ccw. With this table its easy. Look what the gauges says, look at your idle rpm and the table helps what to do.

To each his own. But the two synchronisation gauges are easy to read and give more information, esp. after idle setting rev. the engine up to 3000 rpm. You can see easily if the gauges follow synchron to the rpm.

Greetings

I use a technique I have never heard discussed, but it works quite well for me. If the gauges show a difference, indicating the need for adjustment, I just push or pull a little on the throttle arm on the side where I am reading the gauges. This instantly tells me whether the throttle cable on that side needs to be slightly lengthened or shortened to bring the gauges into balance. I then shut down the engine and adjust the cable adjusters in or out, maybe 1/8 turn; run the engine again and repeat if necessary. Foolproof and requires no thinking about which way to adjust the cable. Try this, I think you will like it.

Hi James Ott,

Sort of similar -

Assuming this is a pneumatic check after the manual set up has been done (Last manual I did was 200 hrs a go).

I only adjust the side, that will bring my idle speed to a more acceptable (to me) rpm.  

I only make an adjustment after checking  increasing throttle settings at say 2500, 3000, 3500, 4000, 4500, 5000 rpm.

Followed by decreasing throttle settings (as above).

I usually go through the above 2-3 times, noting vacuum at each setting.

In doing this, I hope to assess even cable actuation (sticking) and repeatability (same vacuum at the same rpm each time).

This will indicate what, if any, adjustments need to be made and on what side.

😈