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I changed (drained, flushed with demineralized water, blew as much flush water out with my lungs, and refilled with new premixed Dexcool) the coolant over the weekend on my 11 year old (only 200 hour) 912ULS. I also changed the coolant hoses.

Anyway after a ground run-up to makes sure all was well with temperatures and no coolant leaks I noticed one of my carbs was leaking fuel through the bottom of the carb into the overflow pan and out through the overflow tube connected to the overflow pan.

** There was a steady drip / dribble from the bottom of the carb into the overflow pan
** Didn't take time to see if dribble was coming from the clear plastic carb vent tube, although not sure where else it could be coming from, especially as clear plastic tube is held against carb body by the float bowl retainer clip

Then engine isn't running rough and had its carbs balanced by a Rotax mechanic back in May. Not sure when the leak started, but it wouldn't have been there in May otherwise my Rotax mechanic would have found it.

Any ideas to what is causing the problem? My internet searches suggest anything from stuck float (someone said give it a tap with screwdriver handle), to dirt in carb to leaking floats.

I was planning on removing both Carbs this winter and overhauling, and really don't want to remove carbs (even 1) during my short flying season in Toronto - of course, safety first so I might just have to! Even though I have the equipment to balance the carbs, my Rotax mechanic friend charges me a minimal amount and is used to standing by a spinning prop - unfortunately (for me) he is on a 4 week vacation in Europe!

What can be done / evaluated without removing the carb, requiring disconnect of throttle controls and therefore rebalancing?

Looks Like I can remove the Carb from the intake manifold by loosening a single screw and pulling out from a rubber flange. Removing the drip tray looks like more work as it has two bolts attached to the same intake manifold the rubber flange is attached to. I am guessing I could remove the carb and carfeully drop the float bowl without disconnecting the throttle and choke cables?

Roger
  • Re: Fuel overflow on one carb

    by » 6 years ago


    If you have a electric fuel pump, switch it on for a few minutes (with engine off) this should replicate the problem. See if the fuel comes out again. Likely it is coming out into the pans and out the clear tube from under them (which is what they are there for)
    The most like culprit is needle valve not seating properly due to varnish build up or a tiny amount of dirt holding it open, or your float level is too low, either physically set too low or they are sinking too low.
    You will have to take the carb off and look and with the overflow pans there is no way to get to the float bowls without removal. You do not need to remove rubber flange from inlet manifold, just unscrew support bracket and spring and you can pull the carb straight out. Be careful not to twist out on an angle as you can damage the support bracket seal.
    Check float arm level is correct. Weigh your floats, and remove the float arm and clean the needle and valve.
    If you unbolt the throttle lever, Choke levers and carb top and diaphragm in place, you can remove the carb and might get away withou rebalance if you must.

  • Re: Fuel overflow on one carb

    by » 6 years ago


    Much appreciated... you have confirmed the plan I was going to take.

    Thanks for advice about not twisting the carbs when removing.

    I was researching about the rubber inlet mount and circular collar - unsure if I have the new (with spacer to prevent over-tightening of collar) or old (have to be careful to leave a gap of 7 mm - folk suggest an allen wrench for spacer) style.

    I have to decide whether to simply remove both carbs and overhaul them now (instead of coming winter), or try and figure out and fix the one carb problem. Even if I try and measure / mark the power cable settings, as soon as I completely remove one carb I will probably have to rebalance.

    I should be at least be able to access float chamber of overflowing carb by careful removal, and subsequently weigh floats. If floats look like they are leaking or I find dirt, then I may be able to replace floats / clean and re-install without rebalancing.

    Of course, once you get a problem like this, you want to do a complete overhaul to get confidence back!

    The only concern I have with carb overhaul is the peening of the butterfly screws - I have overhauled car carbs before, and am always nervous about the peening!

    Maybe I will take a week off flying to simply overhaul both carbs and learn how to balance myself!

    Roger

  • Re: Fuel overflow on one carb

    by » 6 years ago


    If it is a tiny bit of grime you probably won’t even see it. You can polish the valve and seat with brasso and cotton tip. It then clean out with carb cleaner and compressed air. That will make sure the needle slides well.
    You can overhaul the carb without doing the butterfly. It just means the throttle o ring won’t be replaced. If you clean the carb in petrol that’s fine, or don’t get carb cleaner in the throttle arm. Then you can do the rest of the carb yourself. You have to do it every 200 hours anyway. Follow the rotax owners video and you will be fine.
    The support bracket spacer is nice but not essential. Don’t overtighten but make sure carb is firm in bracket.

  • Re: Fuel overflow on one carb

    by » 6 years ago


    Thanks again... I like the advice about the using fuel pump to replicate issue.

    My hangar is an hour drive from home so I want to collect all wisdom, tools, etc before I try and tackle this evening.

    Will let you know how it turns out.

    Roger

  • Re: Fuel overflow on one carb

    by » 6 years ago


    Related question...

    During an overhaul, is it better to always replace the floats for new ones, or put old ones back if they are up to spec?

    My engine is 11 years old with 200 hours on it. I know the floats are an extra couple of hundred bucks, but new ones shouldn't fail before next overhaul?

    I guess I don't understand failure model for floats, i.e. do they slowly deteriorate over time, or suddenly fail at random?

    What am I losing by cleaning / overhauling with gasolene and not removing the butterfly (avoiding peening) valve.

    Finally, is there any reliable way to mark the throttle connections so that I don't have to rebalance - my engine is currently running so smooth!

    Roger

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