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Hello to all

I got an issue very rare for me but maybe some one can put some light on this odd situation. This what happens to me: I got an issue where I thought that one of the CDI or one of the Ignition coils where bad. When I did the CDI checks, "A" module no problem but when I ran the "B" cdi module, look like the engine wants to jump out of the plane. I start troubleshooting and eliminate both CDI's, and both power plugs for the CDI's, Ignition coils, all work fine; Then I  start the testing the trigger coils; I Unplug the 4 pole connector from the lower CDI and ran the top module, and test ok, but when I unplug the 4 pole connector of the top module and tried the lower CDI, there is where I found a hint of where the problem was;

I start checking the triggers coils one by one as follows. First, I check the ohms from wire to wire, Checked one wire to ground and check, then last check was the integrity of the individual wire from the connector to the end at top of the coil, the top trigger coils pass with bright colors but incredible as it show up the problem, at the lower trigger, one trigger pass the test the other failed as this. ohms and integrity of trigger coil pass but (never see this before) The both wires continuity fails to pass; some where inside the shielding and the insulation of that particular trigger wiring, is an opening where the continuity failed. I thought was my meter but was not; I got a second one, re-checked all triggers (Ohms, and the integrity of the wire) but just that trigger coil fails on the integrity of both wires from the connector to the top the coil. Can some one help me out about this issue because I can not understand how this happens.

Any comments will be very appreciated,

Luis

  • Re: 912 trigger coils wiring

    by » 3 months ago


    First, are you sure you were measuing from the connector to the correct coil?

    There are 4 Trigger coils and one Tach coil and they all look alike.

    If one coil is intermittent you need to isolate the problem.

    It is more likely to be a connection issue at the 4-Pin connector than at the coil end.

    Look for corrosion and then pull snugly on the wire as if you were trying to remove it from the connector.

    If the copper in the wire is corroded and all that is holding it together is the plasic insulation, you may see it stretch or come apart completely.

    It should hold up to a 5-10 pound pull.


    Bill Hertzel
    Rotax 912is
    North Ridgeville, OH, USA
    Bill.Hertzel@Yahoo.com
    Clicking the "Thank You" is Always Appreciated.


    Thank you said by: Luis A Quijano, RotaxOwner Admin

  • Re: 912 trigger coils wiring

    by » 3 months ago


    Bill,

    I only tested  the triggers to the cdi"s, I did not mess with the one for the rpm gauge; Now can I convert a 6 pin connector trigger coils to a four connector one? 


  • Re: 912 trigger coils wiring

    by » 3 months ago


    You will need to change the connectors and other rewiring.

    Whether you can do it is up to you.


    Bill Hertzel
    Rotax 912is
    North Ridgeville, OH, USA
    Bill.Hertzel@Yahoo.com
    Clicking the "Thank You" is Always Appreciated.


    Thank you said by: Luis A Quijano

  • Re: 912 trigger coils wiring

    by » 3 months ago


    Bill,

    If I get the 2 new 4 pole connectors,   you think will be possible just to unplug the wiring that is already crimple from the old connector to the new one? That crimple tool is expensive just to be use one time. The triggers coils I got are in excellent condition but in a six pole connector. I just need to transfer the triggers coils cable to the right spot on the connector. By the way any ideas how to pull those things out of the connector?

     

    So sorry to ask so much but I need to learn.

    Luis


  • Re: 912 trigger coils wiring

    by » 3 months ago


    I do not have that engine available for inspection.

    If the connectors are from the same series. (I think they should be.) then the pins should transfer.

    There are tool to remove the pins.

    I have often made my own from Xacto knife blades.

    The pins will havve one or two latches that need to be depressed to release the pins.

    If you can locate an actual pin or a good photo of one, ypou will be able to see what needs to be depressed.

     

    They go in a lot easier than they come out.

    But once you release them, they slide out easily.

    DO NOT try to brute force remove them, that method will never work.

    The harder you pull the harder they dig in!!!

     

    Unless someone shows up here with the answer shortly...

    Look at the side of the connector shells with a 10x magnifier.

    The manufacturer part numbers should be embossed in the plastic.

    The numbers are very small and cryptic.  Look closely everywhere.

     

    A servicable Crimping tool can be had for under $20.

     


    Bill Hertzel
    Rotax 912is
    North Ridgeville, OH, USA
    Bill.Hertzel@Yahoo.com
    Clicking the "Thank You" is Always Appreciated.


    Thank you said by: Luis A Quijano

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