Recommended Preservation Oil for Rotax 912

For my 912, having been removed from the aircraft and kept in a water/ dust tight custom made box - My local Rotax agent advised -

A good quantity of Aeroshell Sport 4 in the crank case (I used 4 litres).

A monthly, non compression (one plug per cylinder removed), turn over by hand. A squirt of Aeroshell into each cylinder, before turning over (cover spark holes with a rag).

Drain all fuel from carburettor and fuel lines.

Plugging all "orifices" to prevent moisture/dust/insect entry.

To the monthly "crank" - I added a 4 way tilt to engine, to ensure crankcase oil entered/bathed all internal components.

The alternative would seem to be some very expensive preservation lubricants, many of which meet military specifications.

Franklin,
Are we preserving a new engine still in the box or one that is on an airframe and has seen flight?
How long are we planning to preserve it? Weeks, Months, Years?

The worse thing to do to an engine is run it without Oil.
The second worse thing is to Not run it at all.

All I have heard from multiple expert sources is that turning an aircraft engine periodically to relubricate a latent engine does more harm than good. Mike Busch discusses this frequently. The Lycoming service manuals also say this is a no-no (https://www.aviationconsumer.com/maintenance/engine-storage-101the-30-day-rule/)

I prefer the advice on the following thread:

https://www.rotax-owner.com/en/general-tech-discussion/5584-condensation-in-oil-vent-tube?start=5#p12337

I passed  on (see above) my local Rotax dealership recommendation to me - this is for an engine removed from airframe.

NOTE; In my opinion,

# Hand cranking/turning over with plugs removed, can not possibly do harm - in fact the recoating (by rotation) of internal component with oil has  got to be a good thing.

# In this situation, turning an engine over on the starter is not a good practice.

# Staring the engine is about the worst thing you can do to any stored engine.

Ref:

# Hand cranking/turning over with plugs removed, can not possibly do harm - in fact, the recoating (by rotation) of the internal components with oil has to be a good thing.

# In this situation, turning an engine over on the starter is not a good practice.

The underlying issue is that with the Plugs removed there will be no compression.
This is good in that there will be minimal stress on the moving parts.
This is Bad in that there will be No Piston Blow-by to return the Oil back to the Oil Tank.
Ideally, you will want to turn the engine fast enough to create measurable Oil Pressure and for Long enough for the Oil to flow to the ends of all the oil channels such that everything gets a fresh coating of Oil.

You might want to see at least 20psi for 30 seconds or more.
This will be hard to do by hand.

Performing this with the starter with the plugs out would be the easy way but you risk depleting the Oil supply from the Oil tank.
If you were to pressurize the Crankcase by supplying low pressure (~3-5 psi) DRY! Shop Air via the Magnetic Plug Opening, you would create a continuous Oil "Burp" condition, returning all incoming Oil promptly back to the Oil Tank.
This creates the same condition as a running engine minus all the Bad combustion products.